How to Grow Peppers in Raised Beds for an Abundant Harvest

Whether you like ‘em sweet or spicy, ripe or green, peppers are the perfect vegetable for raised beds. This classic nightshade family crop is closely related to tomatoes and potatoes. Peppers thrive in full sunlight, warm weather, and compost-rich soil. They especially appreciate a raised garden bed’s extra drainage and soil warmth. 

With consistent moisture and moderate fertility, you can grow tremendous quantities of bell peppers, shishitos, frying peppers, jalapenos, and beyond with minimal effort. Let’s dig into everything you need to know about growing abundant peppers in your elevated beds or planters this season.

Can You Grow Peppers in Raised Beds?

Peppers of all kinds thrive in raised beds. The elevated growing surface provides enhanced drainage and earlier soil warming, helping the plants take off quicker in the spring. If you have poor native soil, raised beds allow you to create a loamy, compost-rich growing medium that provides the perfect home for pepper roots to anchor and absorb mineral nutrients. 

13 Steps to Grow Sweet or Hot Peppers in Raised Beds

There are over 5,000 varieties of peppers worldwide, most belonging to the Capsicum genus. Fortunately, these warm-weather plants grow very similarly because they share the same wild ancestors. The most widely cultivated peppers are varietals of Capsicum annum, but many hot peppers belong to the species C. chinense, C. baccatum, C. frutescens, or C. pubescens. 

All of these species originate in Central and South America. As members of the Solanaceae (nightshade) family, they are close relatives of tomatoes, eggplant, and potatoes. Unsurprisingly, they also share many similar growing requirements. Full sunshine, rich soil, moderate fertility, proper support, and a little bit of pruning enhance pepper growth. This video has more amazing tricks for huge harvests:

Here is everything you need to know about cultivating these sweet or spicy fruits in raised garden beds:

Choose the Right Raised Bed

Pepper roots average 18 to 24 inches deep, but they will readily reach up to three feet into the soil if the texture allows. A 29 inch tall raised garden bed is ideal, but a shorter bed will suffice as long as there is 18 inches of soil space for the root zone to form.

Raised beds come in many shapes, sizes, and materials. You want to ensure you can access your bed from all sides and that it has enough space to support the amount of plants you wish to grow. 

On average, a pepper plant requires one to two square feet to reach its fullest potential. Some varieties require up to two square feet, but pruning and trellis support can keep them compact. 

This means that a standard three by four-foot bed can support about 10 compact shishito pepper plants or six larger bell or poblano plants. You can also interplant peppers with other crops like tomatoes, lettuces, basil, or flowers, but you must ensure at least 12-18 inches of space between plants to prevent overcrowding.

Choose the Best Varieties

With so many varieties of peppers to choose from, it’s hard to decide what to grow first. Fortunately, most peppers self-pollinate. This means that each flower contains both male and female parts, allowing it to fertilize itself. Still, some flowers will cross-pollinate, especially if your garden is windy. But the cool thing is that cross-pollinating pepper varieties is not a problem like it is with corn. The cross-pollination won’t show up until next season. This year’s fruit will still yield true-to-type. 

So the good news is: If you want to experiment with growing several different varieties, do it! Growing lots of hot and sweet peppers in one bed is advantageous for small-space gardeners. If your plants do cross, it won’t affect the fruit set this season. But if you save and plant the seeds, you may end up with a funky, delightful blend like a mild jalapeno-flavored frying pepper!

Sweet Peppers

Don’t worry about spice with these dependably delicious varieties for roasting, frying, grilling, or fresh eating. The most popular sweet pepper varieties include:

• ‘Shishito’: A Japanese classic, shishitos are small, lime green, and have an interesting smoky flavor when grilled. The plants are compact and the fruits taste delicious when charred and dipped in aioli. Only an occasional pepper has mild spice.
• ‘California Wonder’: These classic red bell peppers are ideal for stuffing. The plants are compact and dependable in short-season climates.
• ‘Orange Sun’: These beautiful sunny orange bells have thick walls and sweet flavor, growing from plants up to 24 inches wide and 32 inches tall.
• ‘Golden Cal’: A bright yellow bell variety with a sweet flavor and medium bushy plants.
• ‘Jimmy Nardello’: My personal favorite, this classic Italian heirloom produces exceptionally flavorful red frying peppers perfect for grilling or making paprika. Although they look spicy, they are dependably heat-free.

Hot Peppers

The world of spicy peppers is even more expansive than sweets. The Scoville Heat Unit (SHU) scale describes how hot a pepper is, with medium spice defined as 2,500 to 30,000 SHU and hot spice ranging from 30,000 to 100,000. 

When handling hot peppers, it’s very important to protect your hands and eyes. The seeds are loaded with capsaicin, the chili compound that makes them taste spicy. Capsaicin is also used in pepper spray. Always wash your hands after handling hot pepper seeds!  

The best hot varieties for raised beds include:

• ‘Megatron Jalapeno’: These giant 4.5-inch jalapenos produce yield early and rate 2,500 to 5,000 (medium hot) on the Scoville scale. Plants are resistant to diseases and average 12-24 inches wide.
• ‘Red and Yellow Biquinho Chile’: These unique little Brazilian treats have a blend of sweetness, tanginess, and smokiness. Their mild heat (1,000 to 2,000 SHU) and compact growth make them great for raised beds and containers.
• ‘Serrano Chili’: With a distinctive spicy Mexican flavor, this classic serrano ranges from 10,000 to 20,000 SHU, growing on prolific plants that reach up to 24 inches wide and 36 inches tall.
• ‘Cayenne Blend’: These pencil-thin cayennes are ultra spicy (50,000 SHU) and grow from decorative plants that remain compact.
• ‘Thai Hot Chili’: One of the hottest peppers you can grow (up to 100,000 SHU!), Thai chilis are iconic in Asian cuisine and grow from very small mounding plants averaging just 8-10 inches tall and wide, perfect for small beds.

Start Seeds Indoors

Peppers can yield all summer long, so if you’re going to put the effort into growing these plants, you might as well ensure a big harvest window. In temperate climates, it’s almost always recommended to sow peppers indoors in the spring. 

The plants grow relatively slowly, requiring several weeks of indoor development to prepare for transplanting. Many varieties still take another 80-90 days to start fruiting after they are transplanted. This means that an early start is crucial in short or mid-season climates. 

Seed Starting Setup

Seed peppers indoors six to eight weeks before your average last spring frost date. They require soil temperatures between 70-90°F (21-32°C) to germinate, so a seed starting heating mat or a warm nursery area is recommended. If you don’t have a greenhouse or a bright south-facing window, you can use a grow light to start seeds indoors anywhere in your home.

Fill large cell trays or 4 inch pots with a well-drained seed-starting soil blend. It helps to tap the container on the table to fill excess air holes, then add more soil on top. Make a light indentation in the center of each cell and plant pepper seeds about ¼ inch deep. Each seed should be buried about twice the depth of its dimensions. Don’t plant too deep, or the tiny flat seeds won’t have enough energy to germinate and sprout to the surface.

Place in a bright, sunny area with at least eight hours of direct light per day. More light is better for these South American native plants. Water well and wait 10-25 days for emergence. Different cultivars vary widely in germination time. The key is consistent moisture and warm soil. If ambient temperatures drop below 50°F (10°C), the plants may struggle. Temperatures above 65°F (18°C) are ideal for seedling growth.

Harden Off Seedlings

Peppers should be ready to transplant after 8 to 10 weeks of growing in their cell trays. The best time to transplant outside is two to four weeks after your last spring frost date. The weather should be thoroughly settled and reliably above 55°F (13°F) at night. 

However, you don’t want to shock the tender baby plants by moving them straight from the nursery to the garden. Hardening off is crucial, allowing your peppers to gradually adapt to harsher outdoor temperatures before planting in your raised beds. If you don’t harden off, the plants may suffer from sun scorch or transplant shock, which can significantly delay growth.

About one week before transplanting, slightly cut back on water. A few days later, move the seedlings outside to a protected area like a patio or porch. They should still receive plenty of sunlight but have some protection from harsh afternoon rays. Cover the seedlings with row fabric or bring them indoors if the nights are still chilly. Move back outside in the day, ensuring the plants don’t show any signs of stress like wilting or yellowing. Then, leave them outdoors to adjust while still in their containers for another few days before transplanting.

Plant in Loamy, Well-Drained Soil

Prioritize your best garden beds for peppers, and you will be rewarded with abundant harvests! Prepare the beds with a loamy, well-drained soil blend. If your beds are already filled with soil, add a few inches of compost to the top before planting. Loosen with a broad fork to improve drainage. Compacted soil is very harmful to the roots as they struggle to establish. Broadforking aerates the lower layers and incorporates more oxygen into the soil without tilling it or flipping it over.

If you are starting with new beds, consider the hugelkultur (lasagna garden) method for filling the bed. Layer sticks and twigs in the bottom, then add straw, leaves, rotted manure, and grass clippings. The upper 6-12 inches can be filled with quality topsoil and fine compost. You can also add moistened peat moss, vermiculite, or perlite to create a loose, fluffy soil texture.

To ensure proper soil drainage, try a quick drainage test: Slowly pour one to two gallons of water over the soil surface. If the water immediately infiltrates, the soil has plenty of drainage. If water puddles or pools on the surface for more than 30 seconds, it probably needs more drainage-enhancing materials.

Transplant After Your Last Spring Frost

It’s best to transplant seedlings two to four weeks after your last frost date. An old southern folk tale says, “plant peppers after the dogwood blossoms have fallen.” But we have a few tricks for earlier planting below. Once nighttime temperatures are reliably above 55°F (13°C), you’ll know it is safe to transplant these tender seedlings into your raised beds. 

Fortunately, elevated growing areas typically warm faster than their in-ground counterparts. The sun rays hit the metal or wooden sides of the bed and heat the soil faster in spring. In addition to checking outdoor weather, you can use a soil thermometer to monitor the soil temperature. If it is above 65°F (18°C), the plants will be cozy and ready to take off.

Earlier Planting and Cold Protection

Long-season pepper varieties like large banana peppers and Thai chilis can take up to 90-100 days from seeding to produce their first fruit. In short-season climates, you want to ensure plenty of time to harvest from the plants. Cold protection with row cover or low tunnels is key for earlier planting. 

Row cover is a type of woven agricultural fabric that allows sunlight and water through, but adds 5-8°F of heat close to the plant. You can “float” row fabric directly over young pepper plants or build them small tunnels using metal hoops. Alternatively, use a piece of greenhouse plastic to create a mini greenhouse on your raised bed. Wooden or metal beds make this particularly easy because you can drill brackets to hold hoops directly in the sides of the bed. Drape the plastic over, clamp it in place, and you have a mini greenhouse that can add up to 15-20°F of warmth! 

However, opening up the low tunnel sides on hot, sunny days is crucial to ensure proper airflow and flower pollination. Greenhouses are very helpful for ripening peppers in cold climates because the plants need weather consistently above 55°F (13°C), ideally between 60-80°F (16-27°C).

Ensure Proper Spacing

Most pepper plants require 18-24 inches of space. Aim for wider spacing in humid climates to keep air moving between plants. Overcrowding can lead to more risk of diseases like mildew or resource competition. With compact or pruned varieties, you can get away with 12 inch spacing as long as the soil is extra rich and you provide consistent moisture.

Topping and Trellising

You probably prune your tomatoes and pinch your basil, but it’s kind of controversial to prune peppers. Generally, it is not recommended in short growing seasons like those in zones 3-6. You don’t have much time for your peppers to recover, so letting the plants grow naturally is best. In these climates, it’s best to only prune off low-hanging leaves that may be close to the soil.

You should also avoid pruning large-fruited varieties like bells and anaheims. These plants naturally produce very few peppers per plant, so stressing them with pruning can actually reduce fruit yields.

When and Where to Top-Prune

In climates 7 and warmer, Epic Gardening founder Kevin Espiritu has done a lot of pepper experiments on his homestead, and it turns out that “topping” hot pepper and small-fruited varieties can dramatically increase growth and yield. I have had a similar experience on organic farms that I have managed. Any time we “pinched” or “topped” the upper few inches of a ‘Shishito’ or ‘Biquinho’, it caused them to grow extra bushy and produce lots of side shoots loaded with flowers and eventually fruit.

To encourage this extra bushy growth, wait until plants are 10-12” tall and look for the Y-fork point at the top of the plant. This is where two main stems diverge. If you prune right below this point, it will signal to the plant to grow bushier rather than taller. The long growing season allows them to recover and produce huge side yields.

If you forget to prune or you’re scared to harm your plants, there is no problem with skipping this step. The plants can still yield in abundance and you have less risk of stressing them.

Trellising and Support

Peppers are generally stout, upright plants, but some varieties appreciate support. Trellising is especially important in areas with high winds. Heavy fruits can weigh down the top of the plants, making them vulnerable to falling over in a storm. A snapped main stem is the end of your pepper harvest season, so you definitely want to protect heavy plants.

A small bamboo or metal stake is the best support for large-fruited peppers. You can also use small pepper cages (similar to tomato cages). It’s best to add support while the plant is still juvenile. This allows it to grow with the stake. Still, you can stake once the plants are larger, but you must be careful when inserting the bamboo near the root zone. Use twine to tie the pepper stem to the stake and keep it upright. Don’t tie it too tight; the twine may dig into the stem.

Provide Consistent Water

Peppers are thirsty plants when they are fruiting, but they are not quite as water-intensive as tomatoes. The leaves of these plants are also somewhat waxy, meaning they retain more moisture over time. Still, if you leave your plants to dry out in extreme summer heat, they may fail to produce colorful peppers, or they can die altogether.

The biggest mistake beginners make is overwatering. If the plant leaves start drooping, but the soil is already moist, it is actually a sign of too much water. The excessively soggy conditions create low-oxygen conditions in the root zone, making it difficult for the roots to keep uptaking water. 

The second issue beginners face is panicking from pepper plant wilting. Similar to pumpkins or zucchini, this hot-weather plant naturally wilts in extreme heat. This doesn’t always mean you need to water. In fact, the plant could have plenty of water and still droop in the afternoon when temperatures are over 90°F (32°C), but it will perk back up in the evening.

Always check the soil with your finger before watering! Move your mulch aside and feel the soil a few inches deep. The ideal moisture level is similar to a wrung-out sponge or a loamy compost. If the soil feels like brownie batter, let it dry out for several days before watering again.

Best Irrigation Methods

Drip irrigation is ideal for raised bed growing because it delivers moisture straight to the root zone. You can run drip lines underneath mulch for extra water retention. Drip irrigation reduces weed and disease pressure. It also saves a lot of water, so moisture doesn’t evaporate before the plant can uptake it. 

You can also use a hose to water right at the base. Avoid watering over the foliage, as this can create an increased risk for diseases like powdery mildew and blight. 

Fertilize With Balanced Fertility

Peppers don’t always need fertilizer, especially in rich soil. But if you want to maximize your harvest, feeding gives them a nice boost. The best time to fertilize is when the plants start forming flowers. 

A balanced fertilizer that is low in nitrogen is ideal. Balanced means that the nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium ratio is close together, such as 3-5-4. Even better, look for a blend that is high in phosphorus (the middle number). 

You do not want to add too much nitrogen, as this can cause the pepper to grow a bunch of leaves instead of focusing its energy on flowers and fruit. A fertilizer blend that is high in phosphorus is ideal for the fruiting phase.

Blend in a granular organic “fruit and flower” specific fertilizer right at the base of the soil. You can also use a liquid fertilizer, but be sure to dilute and source slow-release products when possible. Synthetic quick-release fertilizers are riskier because it is easy to overdose and burn the plant.

Prevent Pests and Diseases

Fortunately, peppers are less prone to pests and diseases than their tomato cousins. Still, they can be attacked by tarnished plant bugs, aphids, and pepper weevils. The best way to deal with these pests is to apply a preventative diluted neem oil solution to the leaves. Aphids can be targeted with a strong stream of water from a hose. Pepper weevils are best deterred by harvesting often, and not leaving overripe fruit on the vine.

However, like tomatoes, blossom end rot is a most common issue with fruits. Though not technically a disease, blossom end rot looks like some sort of black rotten infection on the bottom of pepper fruits. In reality, it is caused by inconsistent watering that leads to reduced calcium uptake. An improper soil pH may also be the cause of BER. You can aim for more consistent soil moisture and prevent the issue with a pre-season soil test. Applications of balanced fertilizers in conjunction with these two methods will ensure a BER-free plant.

Bacterial wilt, pepper blight, and tobacco mosaic virus are other possible infections that appear on the foliage. Fortunately, if you avoid overhead irrigation and source quality disease-free seeds or seedlings, several of these pathogens are unlikely to take hold. If you do notice wilting or mosaic virus, you’ll likely have to remove your plants. Remove infected parts immediately and sanitize your tools if you notice yellow or brown spots on the leaves. Ensure proper spacing and avoid planting susceptible plants in areas where other plants have been infected with wilt or mosaic virus.

Ensure Pollination

Contrary to popular belief, bees are not major pollinators of peppers. A bee may occasionally help move pollen between flowers, but this crop is mostly wind-pollinated. You don’t need to worry as long as your raised beds catch an occasional breeze! But if you are growing in a greenhouse or a very stagnant area, you may need to shake and shimmy the plants around.

Pepper flowers are botanically considered “perfect” because they contain both male and female reproductive parts inside each flower. This allows them to self-fertilize. When a breeze shakes the blossoms, pollen falls from the anthers (male parts) down to the stigma (female part) to fertilize the ovule. 

You can expect fruits to start forming three to five weeks after pollination. Larger-fruited varieties like bells may take longer to develop. 

Harvest at the Right Time

You can harvest peppers in many ways, but if you catch them at the peak harvest window for the variety, you can ensure the best flavor and yields. Most peppers benefit from regular harvests. As you pick more fruit, it encourages more flowers.

For example, a green bell pepper is just an unripe version of red or orange bell varieties. If you live in a colder northern climate where bells often struggle to ripen, pick off a few green fruits to free up the plant’s energy at the end of the summer. This often helps the plant to ripen the remaining peppers and produce more fruits throughout the season.

Jalapenos can technically be harvested at any time or size. The green fruits are common in stores, but they can also ripen into a fully red jalapeno. Mexican cultures actually wait until the red jalapenos start cracking and looking a bit corky. These can be smoked for an incredible chipotle pepper!

Pro Tip: Once the weather cools and you’ve harvested heaps of peppers, learn to overwinter your plants for huge, early yields next season.